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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
so I just bought a 10mill super cub and I have a few questions on which crank to buy.

The previous owner said the motor was set up for a 120 rod 10 mill crank, so that means you have to epoxie, trench, and bore the cases...

I was talking to the guy who ported the cylinders and he said I could switch to the 115 rod 10 mill crank if I swapped out the pistons.... so now your looking at trenching and boreing only, but no epoxie...

which way would be the better way to go? is the 120 rod worth it? any draw back to switching to the 115 rod?
 

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QUOTE (badassbanshee479 @ Feb 23 2009, 07:35 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=31733so I just bought a 10mill super cub and I have a few questions on which crank to buy.

The previous owner said the motor was set up for a 120 rod 10 mill crank, so that means you have to epoxie, trench, and bore the cases...

I was talking to the guy who ported the cylinders and he said I could switch to the 115 rod 10 mill crank if I swapped out the pistons.... so now your looking at trenching and boreing only, but no epoxie...

which way would be the better way to go? is the 120 rod worth it? any draw back to switching to the 115 rod?

I would say run the 115 rod, only drawback to the 115 is they seem to be a little tougher on pistons. The biggest draw to the 115 rod is the 10 mil 115 rod cranks are everywhere, if you have a problem you can have another crank quickly, so you wont miss a race!!!
 

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unless i dont understand something...why would you need to do any epoxy work with a 120 vs 115 rod.......the bottom of the rod shouldnt stick off the crank any more....the 5mm difference is in the beam.
 

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QUOTE (Dave I. @ Feb 23 2009, 10:35 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=31851unless i dont understand something...why would you need to do any epoxy work with a 120 vs 115 rod.......the bottom of the rod shouldnt stick off the crank any more....the 5mm difference is in the beam.

You are right. If the motor has already been set up for a 10mm/72mm bore, there will not need to do any epoxy, boring, or trench work.

Unless he means that he bought a 10mm supercub top end and he needs to do the case work on non-prepped cases...
 

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QUOTE (Koolguyson @ Feb 24 2009, 03:06 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=31855Unless he means that he bought a 10mm supercub top end and he needs to do the case work on non-prepped cases...

That's exactly what he means....he's coming off a 4 mil cub setup.


My opinion is get the 115 rod as well. If this was a larger stroke, like 14mm or more, then I'd say go longer rod.

I'm pretty sure the 120 rods are most commonly big pin big ends...I could be wrong.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
the 120 rod crank is a bigger pin so you have to trench deeper to clear it...

and yup dave is correct, I bought the top end and I need to prep my 4 cases....

thank you for the replies fellas!
 
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