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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Looking at one to buy but would like to know more about it and haven't been able to get ahold of the seller yet. Its plus 6 out front and supposed to accept all factory compnents
 

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I dont know of anyone using them.. But I would imagine that with the aluminum being weaker.. alot more material would be needed to match the strength of chromoly... so the weight savings would be minimal if any. Just my take atleast.. but I've been known to be wrong a time or two..
 

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I have not seen any aluminum frames as of yet, but i know you have to use twice as thick aluminum as you would chromoly material so you would loose much weight doing one out of alum.
 

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If it's just the frame that weighs 30lbs alone, think about how much more weight you'll be adding when you put the swingarm, strut/shocks on it too, a-arms as well depending on how the chassis is made...

If you're going for it because of weight, I think you'd be better off with chromoly, lighter, and stronger. Just my
 

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QUOTE (bigboybanshee @ Nov 19 2008, 01:39 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=16753If it's just the frame that weighs 30lbs alone, think about how much more weight you'll be adding when you put the swingarm, strut/shocks on it too, a-arms as well depending on how the chassis is made...

If you're going for it because of weight, I think you'd be better off with chromoly, lighter, and stronger. Just my



X2
 

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I built one once and half way through I scrapped it. It would actually work out to be the same weight Because you have to use twice the thickness of material Plus then you have to manufacture Gussets at every weld point to ensure your welds do not break. I am a Manufacturing engineer and have The latest simulation software for metal fatigue. The sim always shows that aluminum in the configuration of a drag frame fails. Remember the best frames are long and thin, this is the opposite of what you want with an aluminum chassis. i am not saying it cant be done, But in our case Im not sure its worth the cost. It will never be any lighter than Chromemoly. An aluminum welded frame will need a complete inspection after every run.. Just my Professional opinion.

Ziggy
 

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QUOTE (Ziggy @ Nov 20 2008, 11:22 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=16852I built one once and half way through I scrapped it. It would actually work out to be the same weight Because you have to use twice the thickness of material Plus then you have to manufacture Gussets at every weld point to ensure your welds do not break. I am a Manufacturing engineer and have The latest simulation software for metal fatigue. The sim always shows that aluminum in the configuration of a drag frame fails. Remember the best frames are long and thin, this is the opposite of what you want with an aluminum chassis. i am not saying it cant be done, But in our case Im not sure its worth the cost. It will never be any lighter than Chromemoly. An aluminum welded frame will need a complete inspection after every run.. Just my Professional opinion.

Ziggy
crack at the edge of the weld not neccicarily in the weld, that is the dangerous part!!! unless it is cast and bolted(like the ds450frame) it is not a good plan! extruded and bolted would be fine but you wont find that working on a full chassis!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Well i guess i'll stay with my stocker then. Its the one on ebay had a buy it now of $500 when it started with fresh powder on it but i have sent the guy atleast 10 messages and he'll never get back to me on the details of who made it and what parts will bolt right on etc so i'll just pass on it.
 

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Zig got the long a thin part right, Aluminum is not very stiff - so the length would work against you
Ti suffers from the same problem over the long distance.. but its is much tuffer stuff

One way is a hybrid Ti/aluminum/cromoly
use Aluminum on the bulk stuff like the center section and motor mounts /Ti on the high stress areas/ and cromolly on the parts that will twist and where you need stifness..
 

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QUOTE (BBIII @ Nov 19 2008, 10:49 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=16723I have not seen any aluminum frames as of yet, but i know you have to use twice as thick aluminum as you would chromoly material so you would loose much weight doing one out of alum.
holeshot got one in a trade they are different for sure...they are lighter then stock frames.There was one on ebay for sale
 

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QUOTE (phatboyz @ Nov 23 2008, 07:19 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=17159holeshot got one in a trade they are different for sure...they are lighter then stock frames.There was one on ebay for sale


a frame can be built from aluminum,you just have to know what you are doing.A few friends of mine built a 110" wheelbase frame from aluminum,it holds a 408hp turbo hyabusa engine with no problems,structuraly.

you can just weld it together and expect it to work..it has to be heat treated and you have to use the proper welding methods and material
 

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QUOTE (AMMotorsports @ Nov 30 2008, 11:11 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=17844a frame can be built from aluminum,you just have to know what you are doing.A few friends of mine built a 110" wheelbase frame from aluminum,it holds a 408hp turbo hyabusa engine with no problems,structuraly.

you can just weld it together and expect it to work..it has to be heat treated and you have to use the proper welding methods and material

Can should be can't?

I would like to know how much weight was actually saved. would someone have some pictures of that, sounds very interesting for sure.
 

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QUOTE (Ziggy @ Dec 2 2008, 02:54 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=18118Can should be can't?

I would like to know how much weight was actually saved. would someone have some pictures of that, sounds very interesting for sure.


yeah that definitly was a typo..lol

what i really meant to say was...you can't just lay a nice bead on a peice of aluminum and think it is good..in all reality any aluminum structure parts should be x-ray'ed before they are sent out.Aluminum does some crazy stuff when you get it hot.


as soon as I figure out how to post pics..I will put up a pic of the turbo busa
 
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