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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok, I am using a pro-design's kill switch, and I Had it hooked up to the black and white wire, and then a chassis ground. The ground was a good ground, because I scraped all the powdercoat off it, and there is no rusty areas, and It would not kill the bike. Now I am using the same kill switch but i wired it in using the orange wire, and the black wire coming out of the CDI. And it still does not kill it. What could be wrong? Should I just ground it using the frame or motor?
 

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Are you replacing the key switch or the kill switch with the lanyard?



For replacing the key, it hooks up to the Red/Black stripe wire, and the Black wire, that goes to the key switch.



For replacing the kill switch, it hooks to Black wire, and the Black/White stripe wire, that goes to the kill/headlight switch.



Here's the stock diagram.





Here's the diagram of my bike.

 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Well mine is wired in through the orange wire, and the black wire that is coming out of the cdi. It should kill it, but it's not. Im puzzled and don't know what to do.
 

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Orange is the hot feed to the coil. That wire is normally closed. To kill it with that wire, you have to open the connection. The switch you have closes the connection, when the lanyard key is pulled out. I think you might have a bad switch, and it's keeping the connection closed all the time. To kill with the orange wire, you need a Pingel kill switch. You can get those both ways. Normally open, or normally closed.
 

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Orange is the hot feed to the coil. That wire is normally closed. To kill it with that wire, you have to open the connection. The switch you have closes the connection, when the lanyard key is pulled out. I think you might have a bad switch, and it's keeping the connection closed all the time. To kill with the orange wire, you need a Pingel kill switch. You can get those both ways. Normally open, or normally closed.


You are talking about putting the switch in series and opening the connection, that is what you would do with a normally closed switch but you can also put it in parallel and ground the orange wire out to kill it. The more commonly sold switches are of the normally open variety.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Yea, I didn't think about running it parallel. That's how we did my brother's bike.
I Found out my issue....the plunger does not go in far enough, so you have to push the plunger as hard as you can for it to ground out. So the killswitch is bad. Thanks Everyone!



The contacts inside the kill switch must be bad, or there is a broken wire.
 

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seems to me that if you have it hooked into the orange wire then it wont run unless the safety cord is disconnected, just opposite of how the prodesign is supposed to work. you should have it like 2001stroker, black/white, black.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I have already tried the black and white wire....I can hold the black and white wire to a ground, and it will not kill the motor. There is something wrong with the cdi, or something is up with the black and white wire. The way I have it setup now is working for me. 1 wire from pro designs to orange, and other wire to black off the cdi. And when the teather is in, it is not grounded out.....and when the teather is pulled it grounds out..We checked it with a ohm meter, and it seems to work right the way its setup. I will know tomorrow for sure if it kills it.



Thanks for everyone's help!
 

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seems to me that if you have it hooked into the orange wire then it wont run unless the safety cord is disconnected, just opposite of how the prodesign is supposed to work. you should have it like 2001stroker, black/white, black.




That is how i have both my Drag bikes and they work great, all you are doing is closing the loop and grounding the power to the coil.
 
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