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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Im fairly familiar with the tuning of a regular Keihin PWK carb, but im getting a set of 44mm Lectron Alky carbs and I was wondering if they are much harder to tune than the pwk. Ive seen a few topics where it gets real hairy talkin about the pumps and what not
never heard of it. Opinions plz!
 

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so your going from a stock cylinder dune motor on gas to a 10mil DM on alky.. Thats pretty exspensive motor to learn with.

Just keep an eye on the heat readings of the plugs and start rich. The lectrons are easier to tune.. but.. the PWKS can be fine tuned better IMO.
 

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I sort of agree/disagree with that Shayne...for drag racing anyways.
You're WOT.
You're pulling fuel through a hole in the carb body and via an external jet(s)...
I've always gone along with as long as your dumps/mains are close to the fuel you need, the rest is tuned in by power jet.

You're taking the drilling of the dump and main out of the equation, Lectron vs. the world.

That leaves the power jet, which I say is equal on both as far as terms of adjust ability, and finally the needle, or metering rod.

There is MUCH more fine tuning in a Lectron metering rod than a standard needle. Unless you have a box of 20 different needles...which have to be changed. You can tune the metering rod by 1/4 turn increments, whereas a Keihin/Mikuni you're stuck with fixed needles in a groove.

Sure, you can use the washers, I can't say I've ever seen nor saw anyone actually use them.

I'm partial. I got mine for free. Up until this year, I've had 100% success with them...and even though mine have been dumping fuel this year, which I think I have licked...they run crisp pass after pass. I might turn a PJ in or out half a turn at any given race day.

As far as pumps vs. Gravity, type of pump and float adjustment is absolutely critical on any type of pumper carb. That's not Lectron specific.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
QUOTE (Fouledout421 @ Jul 30 2009, 12:50 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=51700so your going from a stock cylinder dune motor on gas to a 10mil DM on alky.. Thats pretty exspensive motor to learn with.

Just keep an eye on the heat readings of the plugs and start rich. The lectrons are easier to tune.. but.. the PWKS can be fine tuned better IMO.

yea i know its expensive
But thats what I want, all of the banshees ive had were stock cylinders with no more than a dune port. I dont want to just go faster, i wanna win, ALOT. Hence.....

On the other note, ive never relied on heat readings of plug, yet alone know the 1st thing to do or look at in such a process.

Ive had banshee only for about 2 years now, I basically kept it simple and I dont really know a heck of alot, only that I wanna ROLL, HARD
 

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I can see what your saying Dave. The lectrons do have less jetting circuits. But that also mean less adjustabilty. Maybe I'm just a PWK guy and I like being able to adjust one circuit independtly from the other with minimal bleed over. My carbs are dang near on.. but.. I'm still having trouble making adjustments where I want to without affecting other areas that I dont. I find that the metering rod offers less adjustabilty because your limited to the way its cut. the only adjustment is to richin or lean. you can't pick where to make the adjustments. Also you cant just get a difrenent rod from your dealer.


Again.. this is just my opinion from my little bit of experience that I do have with the lectrons. Carb selection is about the same as oil.. everyone will have a preference on wich is better/easier to tune.

But I gotta admit it was nice being that close on jetting right from the start.
 

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Ust make sure you have alky needles "PE1" in em and start with the needle about 48.25 to 48.5mm out of the slide and if you try to rev it up off idle and its sluggish and blows a bunch of fuel out then turn the needle out 1/4 a turn at a time to make it longer/leaner just make sure you have the flat side toward the motor. Then adjust your powerjet a little leaner in small increments till it pulls hard.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
QUOTE (Radar @ Jul 30 2009, 02:49 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=51717Ust make sure you have alky needles "PE1" in em and start with the needle about 48.25 to 48.5mm out of the slide and if you try to rev it up off idle and its sluggish and blows a bunch of fuel out then turn the needle out 1/4 a turn at a time to make it longer/leaner just make sure you have the flat side toward the motor. Then adjust your powerjet a little leaner in small increments till it pulls hard.

Thanks guys great info, i know what the metering rod is but the power jet? I thought all that needed to be adjusted was the metering rod and pilot jet? School me cause im missing something here
 

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QUOTE (dco3100 @ Jul 30 2009, 03:56 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=51719Thanks guys great info, i know what the metering rod is but the power jet? I thought all that needed to be adjusted was the metering rod and pilot jet? School me cause im missing something here

There is no pilot jet in a lectron carb. The power jet is adjusted externally and is fed from fuel lines that run to the float bowl.
 

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At 47mm, mine will blow fuel out the pipes like I'm dusting crops.
Last I checked, I think mine are 48.7mm
I try to get them as humanly close as possible, within .01 to .02mm of each other.

48mm is What I was told is the starting point. My first time out with them ever, I figured better safe than sorry, I started at 45 or 46mm.
I might have gone through a half gallon of meth just starting it...LOL.

You should be able to adjust your needle 95% close without even making a pass. I was told by two people to warm the bike up.
Once it's warm, you should be able to quickly wrap the throttle 2-3 times and it's cleaned out and crisp.
 

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I think the DM"s might need more fuel then the cubs do. Packard told me to start at 38.5mm with my setup and it was pretty close. If he's going to use a 10mil DM.. then he shouldn't be too far off from me since i'm also using the 44 lectrons.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Ok so im looking at this lectron tuning chart from the pinned posts and it lists 100 different needle sizes, I see you say to run the PE-1 needle, so that means i wont have the fuss with choosing between all of those? just adjust and go?
 

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Fine point indeed Shayne. When I talked to Packard, he did ask what kind of motor and where/how I ran.

Packard takes a PE1 and cnc grinds the tip to a half moon shape, making it a richer needle.
I've seen Doug's, Jeff's and a set of JT's Lectrons, all their alky needles had this machined out.
Like a groove cut in the first 1/4 to 1/2 inch of the needle from the tip up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
do these pe-1 needles come with this half moon cut out? Im probably gonna buy a set of 44s from Andy at m&m, so i just tell him its on alky and the PE-1s are what I need, so i get them and adjust those exact needles as desired? Im just trying to get all this stuff inline for when all my stuff comes in
 

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Andy will know what to do.
Only two people in the country are distributors of Lectrons. Packard and Fast by Gast.
I'm sure FBG does great work, but Packard is in this sport big time, and knows our actual applications.
I'd be willing to bet M&M is a dealer of Lectrons for Packard.

If you tell him Alky Lectrons he'll take it from there. You'll just have to tell him fuel pump or gravity fed, size of the carb and billet or stock bowls.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
QUOTE (dajogejr @ Jul 30 2009, 03:51 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=51731Andy will know what to do.
Only two people in the country are distributors of Lectrons. Packard and Fast by Gast.
I'm sure FBG does great work, but Packard is in this sport big time, and knows our actual applications.
I'd be willing to bet M&M is a dealer of Lectrons for Packard.

If you tell him Alky Lectrons he'll take it from there. You'll just have to tell him fuel pump or gravity fed, size of the carb and billet or stock bowls.
cool, big help!
 
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