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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Let's talk about motor mounts...

A lot of us guys around here use an engine stay...or a strut of type tied to the frame and the cases so the motor doesn't move around too much and cause thrown chains, etc.

I see some guys remove the rubber from the front and rear mounts and replace them with billet inserts.

Some remove the rubber from the bottom two mounts, replace those with rubber.
I'd like to hear what different guys use, including the big motor guys....
 

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i just use the stock torqe straps for the bottom and have never thrown a chain or had any other issues.
 

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QUOTE (dajogejr @ May 17 2008, 04:24 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=413Let's talk about motor mounts...

A lot of us guys around here use an engine stay...or a strut of type tied to the frame and the cases so the motor doesn't move around too much and cause thrown chains, etc.

I see some guys remove the rubber from the front and rear mounts and replace them with billet inserts.

Some remove the rubber from the bottom two mounts, replace those with rubber.
I'd like to hear what different guys use, including the big motor guys....
My "engine stay" mounts are solid portions of my frame. I have OEM mounts pressed in, but I check them often. The danger of doing a complete riging mount on OEM cases or anything for that matter, is the some frequency of NVH may be achievable that will crack part of your engine assembly.
 

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I've never had a problem throwing chains or the motor twisting in my stock chassis and I used all OEM mounts. But it still had the uptubes where most guys cut them out. That might have something to do with it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
One of our good friends was having problems at the track last weekend. I know the motor needs to be able to move a little, kinda like why it's a good idea to have some sort of isolater or other on pipes. They gotta absorb the shock a little. I learned that one the hard way...

I know Dyno Don uses the billet inserts for the front and rear mounts. I agree...it can't be rigid...just looking for other options instead of having to drill the cases and make the stay like most of us use.
 

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QUOTE (dajogejr @ May 18 2008, 06:59 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=513One of our good friends was having problems at the track last weekend. I know the motor needs to be able to move a little, kinda like why it's a good idea to have some sort of isolater or other on pipes. They gotta absorb the shock a little. I learned that one the hard way...

I know Dyno Don uses the billet inserts for the front and rear mounts. I agree...it can't be rigid...just looking for other options instead of having to drill the cases and make the stay like most of us use.

He told me that he didn't have his lower mounts in that day.. I'm 99% sure that was the cause of the problem. my cousin left his lower mounts off and he was throwing chains too. you could push up and down on the topside of the chain and watch the motor twist around. This was in a stock unlightend chassis.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Aha.... Now that part I did not hear Shayne...


I just heard it was a new setup/chassis....

I know they tried like hell to get that thing going...you know that feeling when you watch someone throw a chain...just that "cringe"....
They're good peeps, hated to see it happen to them. was not aware they didn't have the lowers in, I'd bet they do now!!
 

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Yeah. I know that feeling.. my cousin threw his chain like 5 times last year Memorial weekend. You might remember that.. he had the shee with the Trinity Graphics.
 

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I pressed out the bushings/rubber mounts and used the solid billet inserts on all of the motor mounts/stays on the 14 mil, and use all stock mounts on the 4 mil Cub. Haven't had an issue with either, other than having to lock tight the bolts on the tank, plastic, side cover, etc. on the 14 to keep them from rattling loose.
 
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