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my mechanic is doing his last build wich will be my my bike and he is sending me out to grab parts on my own..he gave me a list of wich parts i ccould run...he is building me a (cub set up w/his own custom porting,7mm crank,and my choice of pipes he recommended shears also 38mm carbs..now iam a lil lost w/these carbs he says i should get 38 tmx or is it mtx ? i have 35mm on my other shee and there good up stairs ,but this bike here is suppose to hit all the way and he defently says we will touch 100hp or a lilmore ..he does use the dyno...so basically just wanted some insight on this timeing plate ? these straight cut gears, small bore or big bore shears, and these 38mm carbs,im dying to use the see threw clutch cover but he says they leak a lil....any advice plz guys
 

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QUOTE (killa b nyc @ May 27 2009, 06:38 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=44408my mechanic is doing his last build wich will be my my bike and he is sending me out to grab parts on my own..he gave me a list of wich parts i ccould run...he is building me a (cub set up w/his own custom porting,7mm crank,and my choice of pipes he recommended shears also 38mm carbs..now iam a lil lost w/these carbs he says i should get 38 tmx or is it mtx ? i have 35mm on my other shee and there good up stairs ,but this bike here is suppose to hit all the way and he defently says we will touch 100hp or a lilmore ..he does use the dyno...so basically just wanted some insight on this timeing plate ? these straight cut gears, small bore or big bore shears, and these 38mm carbs,im dying to use the see threw clutch cover but he says they leak a lil....any advice plz guys

Yikes, where to start.

First and foremost. Get your money and your parts back and send it to somebody who knows what they are talking about! This guy sounds like he doesn't know his [censored] from a hole in the ground.

Pipes depend on how the engine builder builds the motor. This should not be "your decision".

TMX is a Mikuni carburetor, but I would recommend lectrons for methanol and keihins for gas. Personal preference.

If it doesn't hit 100hp I would get my money back.

Timing of the motor will have to be set up on the dyno. Cast or billet timing plate...doesn't really matter. Billet looks nicer I guess.

Straight cut gears take the load off of the PTO bearing. For a 7mm cub...eh. Not sure I would worry too much about it. But they are nice to have I suppose. Mainly for the bigger motors.

The Direct Drive lock up covers don't leak. Again, get a better builder who knows what the hell he is talking about.

 

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QUOTE (Koolguyson @ May 27 2009, 09:01 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=44414Yikes, where to start.

First and foremost. Get your money and your parts back and send it to somebody who knows what they are talking about! This guy sounds like he doesn't know his [censored] from a hole in the ground.

Pipes depend on how the engine builder builds the motor. This should not be "your decision".

TMX is a Mikuni carburetor, but I would recommend lectrons for methanol and keihins for gas. Personal preference.

If it doesn't hit 100hp I would get my money back.

Timing of the motor will have to be set up on the dyno. Cast or billet timing plate...doesn't really matter. Billet looks nicer I guess.

Straight cut gears take the load off of the PTO bearing. For a 7mm cub...eh. Not sure I would worry too much about it. But they are nice to have I suppose. Mainly for the bigger motors.

The Direct Drive lock up covers don't leak. Again, get a better builder who knows what the hell he is talking about.




exactly!!!!!!!!!!!lol
 

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Majority of guys are running 39 Keihen pwks with power jets on motors like that. Super easy to tune! The lectrons are good also but require special needles and if your at a track trying to tune there will be only a few guys that can help you. Mikunis are a breed of there own, I know of 2 builders that use them and they are the only ones that can tune them. If it's you decision you need to make some good decisions.. Shearer pipes is a good one, IMO PWK's are the option you will want and timing should be around 7 deg advanced, (due to your limited knowledge). The recommendations are assuming your running alcholol.

you will need a lockup for that motor. Its mandatory to get the power to the ground. So unless you use a Gigot Slingshot you will have to use one of those "see-thru" covers. LOL The slingshot works well and can be hidden under a stock cover, the conventional lockup needs a larger space than the stock cover can provide, Hense the lockup cover.

Are you getting an override? If so for the track get the neutral down 2-5. If your duning get the neutral down 1-5. you can always remove 1st gear later if you want to.

Sonny is correct. Most engine builders have a setup that works and they can tune easily. Unless your builder is a guru with those carbs you will really need someone that can help you tune. You will have to talk to your builder during the tuning procedure, You will need a full session on a dyno or at the track, but I have found to get close the dyno is the only way to go. then take it to a tnt at your local track. it wil take you a couple tnt sessions to get a feel for jetting, so dont loose his phone number if your using mikuni carbs.. As you will be by yourself without it.
If your drag racing this bike on alcohol you will need large fuel bowls.. these are a must for 300ft drag races, and iof anything more you will need a fuel pump, you will also need a pingle fuel valve as the stocker would need some major work to flow enough fuel.

side note: that motor with shearer pipes 39pwks on alcohol with a lockup should be about 110hp.. If its a full drag port. If its a duner port job it should be a tad over 100hp.
 

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High performance engines are a system. Its not a matter of buying this or that because you found a good used deal price or it was on sale here or there. An engine program is about specific systems of packages of parts that work best together.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
QUOTE (Ziggy @ May 29 2009, 06:27 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=44585Majority of guys are running 39 Keihen pwks with power jets on motors like that. Super easy to tune! The lectrons are good also but require special needles and if your at a track trying to tune there will be only a few guys that can help you. Mikunis are a breed of there own, I know of 2 builders that use them and they are the only ones that can tune them. If it's you decision you need to make some good decisions.. Shearer pipes is a good one, IMO PWK's are the option you will want and timing should be around 7 deg advanced, (due to your limited knowledge). The recommendations are assuming your running alcholol.

you will need a lockup for that motor. Its mandatory to get the power to the ground. So unless you use a Gigot Slingshot you will have to use one of those "see-thru" covers. LOL The slingshot works well and can be hidden under a stock cover, the conventional lockup needs a larger space than the stock cover can provide, Hense the lockup cover.

Are you getting an override? If so for the track get the neutral down 2-5. If your duning get the neutral down 1-5. you can always remove 1st gear later if you want to.

Sonny is correct. Most engine builders have a setup that works and they can tune easily. Unless your builder is a guru with those carbs you will really need someone that can help you tune. You will have to talk to your builder during the tuning procedure, You will need a full session on a dyno or at the track, but I have found to get close the dyno is the only way to go. then take it to a tnt at your local track. it wil take you a couple tnt sessions to get a feel for jetting, so dont loose his phone number if your using mikuni carbs.. As you will be by yourself without it.
If your drag racing this bike on alcohol you will need large fuel bowls.. these are a must for 300ft drag races, and iof anything more you will need a fuel pump, you will also need a pingle fuel valve as the stocker would need some major work to flow enough fuel.

side note: that motor with shearer pipes 39pwks on alcohol with a lockup should be about 110hp.. If its a full drag port. If its a duner port job it should be a tad over 100hp.

thanks for the serious chin check..i spoke w/ nate mccoy and he gave me some pointers...my biggest gripe was finding a local shop w/ a dyno setup iam in the nyc/nj arera..and my mechanic is not useing his dyno anymore ...he is building jetski"s so if i have to pack it up for a proper tine will do...thanks again you guys are the shee heads..lol
 
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